5. Cycling In Provence

Cycling Mecca.

The Vaucluse area of Provence is described as “The Cycling Mecca of the World”.  Before contemplating a bike ride, a short drive in any direction confirms the popularity of the sport in the area.  The most refreshing thing is that everyone is giving it a go.  The elderly couple wobbling down the road from the market with handlebar mounted baskets stacked high with baguettes, produce, cheese and wine, get overtaken by bunches of sportifs trying to  out gun each other.  The love of the bicycle is common enough ground for a “Bonjour” or “Allez” on the way past.

Emily climbing through the village of Crillon Le Brave.

Our town of Le Barroux is a 3km gentle climb to the main route between Bedoin and Malaucene.  This route, as well as being one of the most cycling friendly roads I have ridden, also makes up a larger 65km epic loop which takes in the climb of Mt Ventoux.  The Malaucene-Bedoin road and Ventoux climb also happen to be included in Stage 15 of this years Tour de France.

Le Barroux

Every climb deserves a coffee.

Within the first week here we got a bike for Emily as she had promised herself, and everyone else, that she would climb Mt Ventoux while we are in the area.  She has been tackling quite a few decent rides over the first few weeks and loving it. Ventoux will be a big day out and a great achievement to tick off.  I’m sure a post will be added as soon as the goal is achieved (or maybe after a long sleep first).

Col de la Madeleine

Terrain made for cycling.

The roads around our area could not have been designed any better for cycling.  Smooth, narrow roads snake their way through vineyards, olive groves and orchards.  Many of the climbs have trees that, despite probably being hundreds of years old, seem to be strategically placed to give shade just for the climbing cyclists.  The roads are winding and rolling, motivating you to explore just a little further incase there is a “not to be missed sight” just up ahead.  A new town pops up about every five kilometres and inevitably has a cafe invitingly placed in the sun, with other rider’s bikes already propped along the shop-front and lycra clad punters sitting outside sipping coffees.

Passing by another vineyard.

The bikes here are predominantly road bikes and vary from Tour De France race ready bike candy to simple off the shelf beginners bikes. The lycra is definitely not restricted to the shaved leg brigade.  Maybe this is for the worse, but hey, they are all out there being active and giving it a go.

From our place there is no such thing as a flat ride.  Generally a 50km ride will result in vertical climbing of 1000 meters plus.  There are flatter roads, but they are mainly busier main transport routes.  The climbs vary between everything from “pinch climbs” of a few hundred metres to steady “where the hell is the top” 15km climbs. Most of the longer climbs average between 7% – 10% gradient.  There is also the 22km Mt Ventoux climb which deserves the respect of its own post at a later date.  The Provence climbs are completely different to anything I have ridden in New Zealand.  They tend to be a more constant gradient that you can keep a nice momentum on.  The “road carpet” surface also helps with the momentum and is motivation enough to keep the wheels humming.  Anyone that has ridden with me over recent years knows that I have a few too many calories under the belt to really enjoy climbing.  With these roads and views you cannot help but be motivated to tackle every climb… and when done, you just want to do them again, and again.

Another descent coming up.

Obviously with every climb there is the well earned treat of the descent.  As you would expect from the above description of constant gradients and smooth road surfaces the descents are just amazing.  Straights that have you wide eyed and trying not to think of painful ending scenarios are followed by nicely cambered hairpins that leave you thinking “a little later braking”, and “I can do that so much quicker next time”.  The local riders stand out on the descents, showing off their knowledge of the roads with corner speeds that I have no intention of trying to match – ever!

Summit at 1912m altitude – could only be Ventoux.

Coffee break – earned!

The drivers here put a lot of New Zealand drivers to shame with the courtesy they show to cyclists.  Whether riders are solo or in a bunch, motorists will patiently wait behind for a clear oncoming lane before overtaking with plenty of room.  They obviously realise the 5 – 15 second wait is not going to change their day, but not waiting that short time could change the cyclists life forever.  Lecture over.  Riding on the right hand side of the road and giving way to the left has been easy to get used to, certainly far easier than driving.

Cycling is a must in Provence.

For anyone planning a trip to Provence, I would highly recommend using the bicycle as a great way to explore your local area.  A few hours bike training over a few weeks before coming to Provence would be a great investment of time, ensuring a comfortable, convenient and healthy adventures.  Hire bikes are available at most towns or cheap bikes available at Decathlon sports stores.  Every ride can become a little guessing game of “left, right or straight?”, “up the next hill for a better view or down the hill for a breather?”, “can I make it to that town on the hill in the distance?”.  You have time to take in spectacular little snipets of vista that would be missed by car.  You also have the motivation to stop for a breather and enjoy the view.

Abbaye St Madeleine has great breads and jams. Just follow the cycle sign!

Anyone needing cycling bits and pieces in the area, Ventoux-Bikes/Ventoux-Finisher have three shops (bikes, mechanic and apparel) in Malaucene.  They have a good selection of used road bikes and most top end gear – wheels, components etc.  Also, Velo-Attitudes in Orange is run by a really nice guy who helped us out with a mechanical issue – and he threw in a huge bag of fresh cherries.

Never know who you might bump into – Aussie superstar cyclist Ritchie Porte.